Category: Traveled Places

How Nice It Can Be

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I think it’s the only time I will be able to say, 

Oh France? Yeah, it was a last-minute decision.

P1020678And it was. Jesse, one of Sandeep’s friends, had recently spent a weekend in Nice and spoke fondly of the beaches and sights in Côte d’Azur. From her description and the location, the southern coast of France seemed like a perfect place to visit before heading east into Italy for cobblestone streets, pizza and espresso. Booking a train and a hostel online the night before however, proved to be seemingly impossible but after some hair pulling and a very expensive 1st class ticket, I was headed to Nice.

I spent the majority of the train ride watching the landscape blur past my window. The rusty-red soil in France quickly replaced the fertile Swiss ground and trees withering under the coastal sun seemed seasons away from the cool and windy Alps just hours before. As we passed Marsailles, I spotted large white yachts floating in the ocean and sunbathers scattered along the shore. It was then that I realized the challenge of my first solo city adventure, a place many diehard backpackers try their hardest to avoid—high season. P1020687

I arrived in Nice, tired and slightly disoriented. The streets, tourists, and general buzz outside the train station had none of the reserved order of Geneva’s downtown. I walked past restaurants boasting a variety of cuisines in bright neon lights and jostled my backpack between the crowds of couples, families and travelers on the sidewalk. A flurry of young travelers filled the hostel with laughter and bottles of beer as I checked in. I hurriedly dropped off my bag and found my way to the ocean, illuminated by lights from restaurants, casinos and freshly lit cigarettes. High-rise apartments and hotels stretched as far as I could see while a bloated orange moon floated slowly above the din. Does can a person feel so lonely in a crowd of people?

I sat on a bench and watched Nice pass by: shirtless joggers, women in high heels and miniskirts, families and groups of college-aged friends. The challenge of navigating this new city seemed suddenly quite overwhelming and I watched the moon rising, wondering what I was doing on a trip to Europe so utterly alone.

P1020693
Notice the leaning tower of Pisa eating pizza in the bottom right corner.

I returned to my room to find the five empty beds occupied with a group of young college students traveling from Taiwan. The organizer of the trip described their travels and showed me his scrapbook filled with cutout maps and miniature drawing. One girl joined the conversation to fill in place names and smiles in halting English while the other girl offered me orange slices as we sat in a circle on the floor. The young man had traveled about a month by himself before meeting up with his friends and I asked him if he ever got lonely on the road. “Sometimes,” he admit, “but when you are alone you can…go deeper in the culture and in yourself.”

His words couldn’t have been more true or come at a better time. 

 

Update!

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[I uploaded at least two more pictures for each of the last two posts. Make sure to check them out!]

The twelve (minus two) toes are traveling again! Unfortunately, with the limited Wi-fi access, posting blogs have been difficult at best. The good news is that I’m constantly writing and taking pictures but none of you wonderful readers have a chance to see any of that. I hope as I continue to jet from hostel to hostel, the Wi-Fi situation will pick up.

In the meantime, I have a LOT to write about Nice, France. But since I will constantly be playing catch up, I thought I would give you my itinerary for the next couple of the days.

France

  • Nice (until August 17)

Italy

  • Genoa (17th-19th)
  • Cinque Terra (19-22nd)
  • Torino (22nd-26th)
  • Venice (26th-TBD)

There are moments when I feel like I’ll never get the traveling thing under control. Where is my passport? Where is the bus station? What does that sign say? Why are there no hostels? Does that person want to be my friend?  And the other moments are pure joy or “pinch me, I’m dreaming” sort of feelings. Everyone is traveling for a different reason but we all laugh in the same language and it’s easy to find common ground with others who want to see what the world  has to offer. I’m seeing incredible things every single day and can barely keep track of the days in my head. It’s a whirlwind and an incredible exploration of self.

Just arrived in Genoa (Genova) and can’t wait for the Italian portion of my trip to begin!

Eze Village, Côte d'Azur, France
Eze Village, Côte d’Azur, France

Geneva: Part 2

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Geneva is the farthest westernmost point of Switzerland extended into France. It looks like France tried to bite off the little city and got stuck with jaws on either side. So when Sandeep announced our plans for a trip over the French border to Salève, I didn’t bat an eye. Despite the grey skies in the morning, I packed up my very ugly and very functional poncho and we fearlessly boarded the tram into the city. Our first destination, a flea market near the center, was postponed when Sandeep spotted a farmer’s market lined with colorful stalls selling vegetables, fruit, mushrooms and bouquets of flowers. We walked up and down the aisles peering over the shoulders of local shoppers as they compared heirloom tomatoes and varieties of bread. P1020565

After the flea market, we caught a bus with the rest of the group and rolled up the mountain to the French border. I watched as our little group breezed past the empty border checkpoint, having forgot the casual nature of traveling between countries in Europe. Up ahead, a small red gondola climbed up the steep 1,100 metres to the top of the mountain. This Mont Salève cable car carries (15 euro for adults) passengers up and down the sheer rock face, suspended by wires and held captive by breathtaking views. Braver souls than ourselves often choose to climb up the steep uphill trail instead, which takes approximately 4 hours from the base to the summit. Additional hiking trails and a full restaurant with views overlooking Geneva await newcomers and regulars alike. 2-DSC_0592

We had lunch at the top, munching on our farmer’s market purchases (baguette, fresh goat cheese and fruit). I don’t know exactly how long we stayed on the grassy hill at the summit, taking pictures and napping in the sun, but I couldn’t get enough of the incredible view. I recognized buildings I had walked past the day before, now just miniature versions of themselves scattered in near proximity to the lake. The pictures on my camera paled in comparison to the wonder and magnitude of the picturesque landscape. I took it as a sign that I should stop trying to document everything and simply basked in the gratitude of being in this place. We took a leisurely walk and stopped from ice cream before descending back down the mountain and home to prepare for the firework festivities. P1020618

Since this was the last weekend of Fêtes de Genève, a large fireworks display was planned for Saturday evening as the month-long celebration’s big finale. Sandeep and I headed to an apartment in the center of town and rode the elevator to the 9th floor for a balcony view of the lake and mountains beyond. Adam and Kevin, the hosts of the party, were attentive and kind providing both intelligent conversation and bottles of wine depending on current need. The fireworks began around 9:30pm and lasted for almost an hour with a variety of musical interludes. Prior to that evening, I had always watched fireworks from a picnic blanket or lawn chair. Never before had I witnessed such a display from a top floor view. From the balcony, I felt myself floating above the city alongside the burning embers exploding into the night. There was just one more day left in Geneve and a perfect ending to my first destination on this backpacking expedition.

*The Internet here is incredibly slow. It will only upload one or two pictures so please stay tuned. I hope Wi-Fi will pick up soon!**

Thanks for the photos Sandeep!
Thanks for the photos Sandeep!

Geneva: Part 1

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Part 1 (That’s right, folks. There’s gonna be a sequel.)

Geneva is located at the western tip of Switzerland built around Lake Geneva. It is the most populous city of Romandy, the French-speaking part of the predominantly German speaking country. En route from Milan to Geneva, I met a talkative college professor who informed me that Switzerland is also home to a variety of unique German dialects that, until recently, did not have a written language of their own. The mountain and valleys kept these unique dialects in tact; a fascinating piece of linguistic history coming from a country primarily known for banking, chocolate and multi-functional pocketknives. Geneva is also home to the UN, located in Palais des Nations (Palace of Nations) located near the League of Nations after the First World War. This international hub cultivates a palpable importance within the city and having arrived directly from Milan, Geneva seemed to rise from the lake as a respire from the Italian city’s obsession with fashion and power.

P1020474I spent four days with my friend Sandeep, a current UN intern, who I had met years ago while interning in Washington, D.C. He surprised me at the train station and brought me to La Terrasse, a popular lakeside bar, for a drink while he finished up with work. Thursday was the last week of Fêtes de Genève, a month long summer festival, and we walked past amusement rides and food stands selling crepes, sandwiches and ice cream. During the day, children waited in line to try their luck at one of the many carnival games while at night the streets were crowded with young adults in their teens and twenties who flocked to the lake for live music and DJ beats. From my seat at La Terrace, I could see the Jet de L’eau, a large fountain and one of the main tourist attractions in the city, shoot a plume of water high into the air (459 ft), arching in a white mist as it fell back to earth against the serene backdrop of the French Alps. I sipped my beer as the moored boats rocked along the shore. 

P1020495In the evening, we stopped for some picnic supplies and walked to the park for the outdoor showing of Invictus, another free event as part of Fêtes de Genève. I met a variety of interns who work in various departments of the UN. These young intelligent students came from all over the world but shared a unified passion for a better and more peaceful world. Many were focused in human rights and international work, having recently come from the academic background of law. And so, it was fitting after meeting each of these individuals, that I started my Friday with a guided tour of the UN headquarters. The tour guide provided a wealth of information including the historical relevance of the original League of Nations and impact of the UN entity in the world today. After perusing the bookstore and sending my first postcards, I wandered down to the beautiful Jardin Botanique, part of surrounding grounds known as the Cultural Trails*.

The greenhouses were exquisite and each pond, rock and palm tree was meticulously planted and cared for. I walked along the water stopping to take pictures, sit in the shade and read in the grass. I stopped once to watch a group of older men and woman sitting on a bench watching the water. They seemed so peaceful silhouetted against the lake’s blue water. I imagined them as young Swiss couples, laying in the grass and falling in love. These five strangers completed a feeling of peace and tranquility I couldn’t describe in any other way (picture to follow). P1020548

[Cultural Trails* include the botanical gardens and five museums: the Swiss People in the World museum, the International Red Cross and Red Crescent, The League of Nations, the History of Science, and the Ariana Museum. Prices for entry vary with location.]

Day One: Milan

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On my first evening in Italy, I sit outside my room on the 3rd floor balcony that overlooks the Viale Andrea Doria. Straight ahead, a neon yellow sign proudly displays GRAND HOTEL DORIA high above the old stone rooftops. The moon is almost full. It is the same moon that will shine down in America, hours from now and miles away. P1020438

I sit here in comfortable solitude as I piece together the events of the day. I remember my seat mate on the airplane, Chelsea, who drinks a glass of red wine while finishing the last tantalizing chapters of Gone Girl. She is kind, a graduate from UVA Law, who just finished the Texas bar exam and is finally taking a well-earned vacation with two of her law school friends. She is the kind of girl who saves her brownie from dinner for a late night snack and asks me questions about my upcoming trip. Chelsea and her two friends will later “adopt” me into their friend group as we navigate the bus system, train station and correct destinations. Thank you to those young women. And thank you to the New Jersey father who used his precious cell phone data to look up the directions to my hostel and allowed me to write each one down so I wouldn’t get (too) lost.

P1020429Thank you to the Australian girl, Kelsey, who is occupying one of the six bunks in my room tonight. Dinner was great. Your 24-year-old confidence as a traveler and explorer of the world is inspiring. I hope you get to reunite with your Irish boy sometime soon.

Milan: 

“Few Italian cities polarise opinion like Milan, Italy’s financial and fashion capital.” Lonely Planet Mediterranean Europe (Travel Guide)

Milan is first and foremost an international city. I was surprised by my lack of culture shock, more closely resembling my slight discomfort in New York City than the more isolating awareness I usually feel in a foreign land. People of all races, heights and body types weave their way through busy crowds and frantic shoppers. English is written on signs and spoken by a number of business owners.The buildings here in Milan, however, have more character and less height than the Manhattan skyline. Piazzas with fruit trees or bike rentals are sprinkled throughout the city. Pedestrians, mostly women, enjoy their multi-colored gelato with long extravagant licks.

P1020446And the shopping! Go down Venezia Buenos Aires (located along the red line) to get an idea. I walked for 25 minutes past store after store selling shoes, sunglasses, perfume, clothing and more. Prices ranged from incredibly cheap to high-end luxury goods. It took all the willpower I hate to only purchase a pair of sunglasses. P1020452

For food, I suggest checking out Milan’s Happy Hours. These deals usually run from 6pm-10pm. For the price of one drink (cocktail, beer, wine), you have access to an all-you-can-eat buffet bar. Tonight I sampled a variety of dishes include seafood paella, pizza, pasta, salmon, roasted potatoes, olives, cheese, fruit and chocolate cake for dessert. The bill? Only €9.

For culture and art, Milan is probably most famous for Da Vinci’s The Last Supper and the Duomo di Milano, both located at or near the center of downtown. The Last Supper will require advanced reservations so book ahead.

P1020454

 

 

Goodbye America!

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please turn off all cell phones and remain seated until the fasten seatbelt sign has been turned off. 

Dear America,

We, seat 31K and I, are ready for departure. Next stop, Milan.

It’s not you, it’s me. I just need to be apart for a while in order to find myself and see all that world has to offer. I promise to return to you when the time is right.

your devoted and loyal citizen,

K

Kate’s 8: Steps for Planning a Travel Adventure

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Here is a list of tips I learned while planning my trip. Nothing groundbreaking but definitely important things to keep in mind. While these fortune cookies of advice are focused on travel aboard, they could apply to anyone ready to travel somewhere new. 

Thinking or wishing about your own trip somewhere abroad? Consider the following (in order):

Kate’s 8: Steps for Planning a Travel Adventure

  1. Make a list. Where do you want to go? How many countries/cities do you want to explore? Start big but know when to pare down. Think about distance, budget and timeline before committing to any set plan.
  2. Ask friends for advice. Chances are at least one of your friends or friend of friends have been to the destination you’re dying to visit. Fellow travelers love giving tips and recommendations so don’t be afraid to ask. Cast a wide net to seek out help…or ask them to come along!
  3. Research necessary logistics. This is super important. Research the places you are going and make sure you have all the necessary visas, vaccinations and a valid passport. Contracting a deadly disease or deportation shouldn’t be at the top of your bucket list. 
  4. Purchase the ticket and tell everyone you know. There is something incredibly final about clicking “pay” and receiving that Ticket Confirmation in your Inbox. When I first started planning, I had countless people asking me when I was leaving, where I was going, and when I was coming back. I needed to have some answers, both for them and for myself. You WILL be held accountable by your friends and family. Buy the ticket and don’t look back. 
  5. Start shopping early. Researching the right backpack and  hiking sandals takes time. Don’t get stuck with equipment or shoe apparel you’re not happy with or get forced into expedited shipping so your Osprey 55 L Farpoint will show up three days before you leave. For your procrastinators, Amazon Prime is a godsend. 
  6. Save, save, save. This might be the trickiest part. You will need to make some changes in order to accumulate the money, time and willpower to go. I recommend keeping a piggy bank or personal travel fund that you pay into every week. Made your lunch instead of going out? Add $5.00 to the money jar. Chose a smaller apartment to save on rent? Add $50 each month. Investing incrementally is a great way to save money while focusing on the larger goal instead of the daily sacrifices. 
  7. Give yourself a buffer window. Whether you’re taking time off of work, traveling after school or quitting your job, it’s important to have some time to prepare and reflect before jet setting on your incredible adventure. Set aside some buffer time (if you can afford it) before leaving for your trip. I gave myself almost a month between the time I left my job and left the country. Double checking the packing list and getting a couple nights of zzz’s will make you more alert and ready to go!
  8. Don’t wait. There will be no “right time” for you to go on a trip. Life is a series of somethings or someones you won’t want to leave behind. Truth is that those people, those careers, and those responsibilities will all be there when you get back. Don’t underestimate the incredible opportunity to see the world and fulfill your wanderlust. Chances are, you won’t regret anything but the trip not taken. 

Be brave. Trust yourself. See something new. 

Sacred Rim, WY
Sacred Rim, WY

A Life Guide to Packing Light

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A Life Guide to Packing Light

Pack light.

Have a plan—and keep it flexible.

Carry only the essentials.

 

Do not accept unmarked baggage from others.

Do not have others carry your baggage for you.

Know when to leave those belongings behind.

 

If items become too plentiful, give them away.

Accept gifts in return.

 

Heavy hearts and containers of regret

exceeding 3.4 oz

must be checked.

 

Bubble wrap your best relationships.

Handle with care.

 

Do not fear the unknown.

 

Tread lightly and if you must carry a big stick,

make it a walking stick.

Leave it at the trailhead for the next pair of dusty boots.

 

You will be neither the first nor the last.

 

And please, send postcards.

Mount defiance NY (Lake Champlain)
Mount defiance NY (Lake Champlain)

The Story, My Story.

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“Who owns the story, the person who lives it or the person who write it?”

-Roxana Robinson, “The Right to Write”, New York Times

I came across this article yesterday while reading other opinion pieces in the New York Times. The question was largely in context of nonfiction writers taking on a topic outside of their personal experience: the writer of a war novel who never experienced battle or a Caucasian woman writing on predominately African American culture. It was assumed in the article that the writers performed extensive research in order to write about each new topic, taking pains to write as truthfully and honestly as they could. But the question remains. Do these writers own their stories and if in doing so, do they take ownership away from those they interviewed and studied, those who had lived the words on the page?

These questions, as a blogger, stay with me. I am now the very proud owner of the domain name www.twelvetoedtraveler.com. This is my public outlet for my personal story. Here in this magical Internet world, I share my thoughts and my experiences with anyone willing to indulge me for 20-600 words. I wonder about my own legitimacy to share my stories and to includes others who may not have asked to be written about or illustrated in detail. I worry about the way my motivation may be portrayed: truthful expression or creative license for exploitation?

photo (16)Austin was incredible; the city is filled with sun, incredible food and wonderful company. One evening Billy and I were seated at the patio outside Uchi (which would go on to be the best sushi experience of my entire life) waiting for our table when a waitress came to bring us drinks. The three of us began chatting and the waitress told us she was planning a solo trip to Europe–one way ticket to Copenhagen–and we immediately exchanged contact information while I rattled off a number of places I knew she would love. I remember feeling incredibly excited for her, embracing another continent to explore the world with some hard-earned cash. I was confident that it was going to be one of her big life changing experience. And then I realized,

she was me.

One month from today, I will be in Geneva, Switzerland starting my own solo tour of beautiful, historic countries I’ve only seen or read about in travel books and Facebooks. I have my countries in order: Switzerland, Italy, Croatia, Greece, Turkey. I have begun to (roughly) chart my expedition across these foreign lands: the places my parents honeymooned and my friends have beached and bathed. I have one month and I am totally overwhelmed.

 “Who owns the story, the person who lives it or the person who write it?”

But I think about my alternative. The alternative being not going. The alternative being someone else writing my story.

My motivation for traveling and for writing  is self discovery. It is meant to be neither self-indulgent nor abstract. I write because there are places I’ve been and people I’ve met who deserve to be recognized; these people and experiences have changed me. I write because I don’t want to choose between living my story or writing someone else’s. I want both.

—-

P.S. I want to give a special shout out to those people from Northampton, my old job, and others who have recently begun following my blog. Thank you for your support as I start out of these very exciting and scary chapter of my life. I’ll be bringing each of you with me as I roll my suitcase and write my words.

Rabbit Rabbit

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I tried to warn you earlier and fear it may be too late. Something tells me that you, dear reader, have already spoken today. Did you whisper “good morning,” rubbing Sunday morning sleep from your eyes or leave a phone message after a leisurely breakfast of scones and rhubarb pound cake? Most probably. But if you haven’t yet exercised your vocal chords, let this be the first thing out of your mouth:

“Rabbit Rabbit.”

Maybe I should have posted this blog 14 hours earlier. This superstitious transition originated in the early 1900’s and was practiced by the likes of Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Gilda Radner. I’ve only managed to accomplish “rabbit rabbit” effectively once and cannot remember if March was a particularly fruitful month. But here we are, standing on the precipice of Spring, about to jump into the luxuriously lazy river of Summer. So let the good times flow.

My summer is starting off HOT HOT HOT. Texas hot, to be exact. On June 12th, Bobby* and I will be flying to Austin for BBQ, music, bats and beer. I’ve heard so many good things from Austin visitors that by the time Toby and Amy decided to move back to TX, my Google searches consisted exclusively of Austin rental houses and Top Ten lists.

I’ve done two important tasks in anticipation of my upcoming trip (arguably not in order of importance):

Hot Texas Nights1. Started reading Hot Texas Nights, a 1990’s romance mystery that takes places in Austin. With such powerful literary reviews, I just had to pick it up.

‘Though the book is a pleasant enough read, Baxter’s characters are stereotypical, her pacing choppy and her dialogue during lovemaking scenes ripe with cliches such as “You like what you see?” and “God, but you fit me like a glove.”’

2. Asked my recently Austin-bound friends of places to go, things to see, and BBQ to eat which brings me to Katelyn’s Top Ten Things to Do in Austin From a Girl Who’s Never Been.

  • Hill Country Wineries- I’m assuming to consume wine.
  • 6th Street- “Dirty Sixth” where the drinks are strong and the memories are weak.
  • Whole Foods Headquarters.
  • Rainey Street- Streets of houses that they have gutted and turned into bars. Adorable and hipster positive way.
  • Barton Springs (in Zilker Park)- great swimming hole with picnic-ing outside the park. Daytime funtime.
  • Congress Bridge at dusk- 1.5 million Mexican Free-Tailed Bats emerge into the night in a flurry.
  • Uncommon Objects- A fun shops on South Congress, this shop have antique photos and other funky stuff.
  • Red River-famous Barbecue and Music place with Austin-famous food trucks.
  • Eat BBQ-At any of the following places: Franklins, Salt Lick, Stubbs, Country Line etc. Be prepared for long waits.
  • Amy’s Ice Cream- enough said.

For anyone who has been to Austin, I’m very open to suggestions. Update to list coming soon. And just remember, even if you forgot “rabbit rabbit” and your June is doomed with bad fortune and missed opportunities, there’s always July.

*Names have been changed for humorous and completely unnecessary purposes.